Friday, January 30, 2009

January Draws Strangely to a Close







My first month at post has concluded. I find myself in the sort of place where all that has happened since I last wrote has been nearly forgotten in lieu of all that has happened in the last few days. So I will write two posts. This is the first.

My month in Winditan was:
-waking up to mornings with the roosters accentuating the light coming in around the window edges.
-trying to find ways to get my feet less wet when watering my garden.
-admiring my newly acquired triceps.
-finding better ways to stretch my back.
-greeting my neighbors over my concession wall, “you slept in health?” “yes, all in health.” as we garden while the sun comes up.
-learning to cook dinner before the sun goes down so I can see better.
-writing letters at my desk where the lemongrass and basil are.
-sitting on a small wooden stool at my neighbor’s house with my notebook and dictionary, trying, just trying to understand this new language.
-the stars: in Zarma they call them “the moon’s children.”
-breakfast: couscous with powdered milk, cinnamon, raisins and a nice cup of instant coffee.
-lying on my cot watching spiders hunt, and reading.
-walking to town to buy minutes for my phone…sitting on the wood benches there, watching a village exist.
-moments when I first wake up after dreaming of America: what am I doing here? what, what, what?
-falling asleep at night: I am learning to be less instantly and completely afraid of spiders.
-tomatoes: finding the caterpillar holes, killing the eggs, throwing them over the fence.
-onions: adding dirt as they grow out of the ground. building and re-building the bed’s edges.
-Tuesday nights: meet with the 8 men of the men’s group at the Center around a fire because it’s cold. talk about what the problems are. how we maybe find, begin to find, solutions.
-post dinner conversation with the women at Mari’s house when work is done and it is laughter and gossip.
-the 7 k to Balleyara for market and the blisters and finding a donkey cart to ride back on.
-drawing with the kids on a straw mat in my concession on Saturdays, always: Zeinabou? Babou? Is this one good?
-Abdoul-Karim, not yet 2, comes running when he hears me bring my watering cans to the pump. Babou! Babou! and he follows me pointing at everything while I water.
-when the wind comes, and the cold comes, and everyone hides in their houses. and the trees blow sideways.
-the stars.
-the stars.
-the sunsets are somehow casual. In Zarma they say, “the sun falls.” Everyday I am sure; today is more beautiful than yesterday.
-but then those mornings when I wake up and think I’m in America. What it takes to get back here all over again.

A good first month. I am constantly listening. Trying so hard to absorb. Sometimes I make hot chocolate and read with my headlight until midnight.

1 comment:

Riordan said...

It is fascinating to be in Scotland for my one month milestone at the same time as you finish your first month at post. Both away from home, but such drastically different settings. So much love to you. I'm going to write another letter, so we can have numerous correspondences going on at the same time. Be well.